190mm Ultra Thin Wood Circular Saw Blade For Crosscutting

A thin plate on a large diameter has to be made properly, or it flutters and the cut wanders. So here is what actually happens to a Shin Sho 2 plate before it gets packed.

It starts as fibre-laser-cut steel, not a stamping, which keeps the edge free of stress and the diameter exact. The plate is then roll-tensioned. This is the step most buyers never hear about: tensioning is what keeps a blade straight when it's spinning and warm, not just lying on a bench. After that every single blade goes on an automated balancer. You can tell a balanced blade by what you don't feel: none of that high-frequency buzz cheap blades give off.

Two more details are cut into the plate itself. Laser-cut stabilizer vents damp vibration and quiet the blade in the cut, and heat expansion slots let the plate grow a little during a long rip without warping. Between them the blade tracks straight through the full 60 mm plus of cut.

The first thing is the push. Rip a 2x10 or run a full sheet of 18 mm plywood and the saw simply walks forward; by the second board you stop leaning on it.

The second thing takes longer to notice, and it's the one cordless users care about most. A battery saw spends most of its charge forcing the blade through wood. Cut less wood, draw less current. We don't publish a percentage here because it depends on the saw and the pack, but anyone who has run out of battery halfway through a roof deck will understand why a thinner blade is worth having.

Corded saws benefit too. A 1,200–1,800 W saw keeps its rpm in hardwood or wet framing lumber instead of bogging down and burning the cut.

And there's less mess: less sawdust in the air, a little more usable wood off every board.